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Nepal: Climbing & Expeditions » Island Peak (Imja Tse) 6189m

Nepal: Climbing & Expeditions » Island Peak (Imja Tse) 6189m

Island Peak (Imja Tse) 6189m

Island Peak (Imja Tse) 6189mThis is the most popular climbing / trekking peak in Nepal. From Dingboche the mountain is clearly seen as a pyramid of ice and rock. The mountain itself is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar separated by a small col. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island Peak. Imja Tse not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Ama Dablam in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.


The Climb : South - East Flank:The Climb : South - East Flank:

summit of Island PeakThe usual site for base camp is at Pareshaya Gyab at 5,087 m. This is not an attractive place and one has to be careful for avalanches. From base camp the trail goes round the base of Imja Tse between the moraine and the mountain before turning north-east and climbing steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. Following an open gully leads to the high camp at 5,280 m. From the high camp scramble across the open gully and take the right hand ridge. After the ridge straight op and cross to the glacier. Find your way upwards, to the left side between the crevasses and seracs. You will see a gully with on your left side rocks and on the right side more open space. This gully leads to the summit ridge. Be aware of falling stones and ice. View from the summit of Island PeakThe ridge itself is a classic and undulates towards the main summit which is reached by a final snow pitch.


North Ridge:

Follow the Imja Glacier and the moraines by snowy slopes op to the col at 5,700 m. Put your camp on the col. From the col follow the ridge. This ridge is difficult under snow conditions. Beware of the cornices. The ridge steepens for the final top. This route is a little more difficult than the normal route.

  • Trip Code: NT-N306
  • Duration: 55 days
  • Location: Everest Region
  • Standard: Difficult
  • Max. Altitude: 8, 201m.
  • Start: Namche Bazaar
  • End: Lukla
Island Peak (Imja Tse) 6189m

Outline Itinerary

Day 01 : Arriving in Katmandu brifing at hotel (1330m)

Day 02 : Kathmandu, sightseeing Kathmandu Valley

Day 03 : KTM/Lukla Trek to phakding 5 hrs (2652m)

Day 04 : Trek to Nmmche Bazar 6to 7-hrs (3440m)

Day 05 : Acclimatization day visit National Park museum, is possible to do site trip to Everest view hotel it takes 5 hrs going up and coming down Everest view Hotel elevation is (4050m.)

Day 06 : Trek to Thame 6 hrs (3800m) Visit Thame Monastery in the evening.
Day 07: Trek to Khumjung 6 hrs (3790m) Monastery tour in the Evening where you can see Yeti Scalp.

Day 08 : Trek to Dole (4220m.) 6 hrs.

Day 09 : Trek to Mchermo (4410.) 5 hrs.

Day 10 : Trek to Gokyo (4750m.) 6 hrs.

Beyond Machhermo the trail climbs a ridge for an excellent view both down the valley to kantega and up towards Cho Oyou.

On the way to Tengboche MonasteryIt is a steep climb up the moraine, switch backing along side the stream to the first small lake at 4650m, where a familjy of Brahminy ducks has resided for many years.The trail now becomes almost level as it follows the valley past a second lake, known as Longponga, at 4690m and finally up a boulder-strewn path to Gokyo.

Is a collection of stone houses and walled pastures on the shores of a large lake. The setting is reminiscent of an abandoned summer resort.

Day 11 : Climbing Gokyo ri back to gokyo over night at Gokyo Morning climb Gokyo Ri (5360) for views of Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and many other mountains (6 kms round trip / 4 hours). Afternoon optional hike up along the Ngumpa Glacier to the 5th lake or further to Scoundrel's viewpoint.

Day 12 : Trek to Drangnag (4790m). 3 hrs.

Day 13 : early in the morning start trek to over chola to Jongla. Cho La pass (5330m) 7 hrs.

Day 14 : Trek to Labuche (4910m. 3 hrs

Day 15 : Hiking early in the morning to kala pathar( 5545m.) Back to Gorakshep 6to 8-hrs

Day 16 : visit Everest Base camp early in the morning back to Lobuche 7 to 8-hrs (4930m)

Day 17 : Trek to Chhuking 4730m.

Day 18 : Trek to Island Peak Base camp 5087m.

Day 19 : Climb Island Peak 6,189m.

Day 20 : Trek to dingbuche 4480m.

Day 21 : Trek to Namache 3440m 6 hrs.

Day 22 : Trek to Monjo 2835m.

Day 23 : Trek to Lukla 2652m.

Day 24 : fly back to Kathmandu drive to hotel.

Day 25 : extra day.

Day 26 : Departure day.

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If you want more information or some advice on one of the peaks mentioned above, feel free to send us an e-mail. If you wish to engage in a climbing expedition from the Nepal-side, please have a look at our climbing section for Nepal.

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